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Not too long ago, the runway images for this year’s collections starting pouring into my inbox, and quite frankly, I hated everything. Every men’s line that I saw reminded me of all the things one should never wear. It was as if the designers were trying to just reach so far out there, and not care about the end results. I believe I equated one line to “bad retro wallpaper cut into tux jackets”, if that tells you anything. Thankfully, the fashion gods have shined through for your gentlemen. Our favorites, Gareth Pugh and Rick Owens, once again, amazed us all with their ingenuity, and well… awesomeness. A few more things have filtered in that I am quite taken by, so allow me to take this moment to share.
Kris Van Assche keeps up with Rick and Gareth, but has given us a bit more of a comfortable, every day feel. Oversized layers paired with curved, yet angular cuts, that seems to give the wearer the allowance to actually move about freely. I’m obviously a fan of the color scheme, keeping with the gray scale that fills my entire closet.
Impelled by a vision of the man who takes the time to “dress up”, Kris Van Assche has embarked on an esthetic quest, pursuing a new masculinity infused with poetry and authenticity.
Ann Demeulemeester went a bit on the romantic chic side, with the collection full of oversized, draping wraps, and Victorian inspired suits. The models walked the runway to a string score by Nick Cave and Warren Ellis, further emphasizing the anachronism she has sculpted.
I called them the immigrants, the pioneers from the future. They start at Day Zero – it’s a group of poets who immigrate to a new land, who bring their culture with them and start anew. They don’t start from the past but they bring their culture with them.
Images via DazedDigital